How do you choose a coat to suit your figure?
How do you choose a coat to suit your figure? This is the most frequently asked question, and although there are a few guidelines worth following, the most important one is this: you must feel comfortable in your coat.
A well-chosen coat should emphasise the best features of our figure, whilst concealing any imperfections. Outerwear can hide a lack of a waist, or fuller thighs or arms. Some cuts will visually even out the difference between the upper and lower body. Others will make us appear taller and more slender.
However, even if the cut of a coat doesn’t quite suit your figure perfectly, but you love it – that’s the best choice. In my opinion, this is the most important criterion when choosing a coat. Of course, it’s sometimes hard to tell just by looking at photos online and deciding whether to buy it. So, below I’ll try to outline the key principles to help you choose a coat that suits your figure more easily. Whilst I’m at it, I hope to debunk a few myths.
When buying a coat, not all of our body measurements are relevant, so when describing body shapes, I’ll limit myself to the five main types. From the wide range of terms available, I have chosen the most popular names for body shapes: apple, pear, rectangle, cone and hourglass.
We’ll start with cone-shaped profiles, that is, one in which her shoulders are wider than her hips.
If you have a cone-shaped figure, you should avoid over-emphasising broad shoulders and, at the same time, choose coats that draw the eye downwards. We therefore opt for coats with kimono or raglan sleeves, which will soften the outline of the shoulders. We avoid gathered sleeves, puff sleeves, and – if the shoulder line is very pronounced – even classic set-in sleeves. I also strongly advise against coats that taper towards the bottom, as these will make the upper body stand out too much. A-line or straight-cut coats (with or without a belt) are ideal. So opt for coats made from plain fabrics, in darker colours, with a V-neck – a slimming lapel collar, and visible pockets (patch pockets or flap pockets – drawing the eye to the lower sections). A great option, for example, is a single-breasted coat with a lapel-style collar fastened with a single button – it will emphasise the bust, define the waist and draw the eye down to the slimmer lower half.
If you have a slim, A-line figure (your shoulders aren’t broad, but are still wider than your hips) and you like fitted coats with classic set-in sleeves, please get in touch with us. For bespoke orders, we can alter the coat’s construction to widen the shoulder line. Such alterations are possible with certain styles.
It’s worth remembering that we should feel comfortable in a coat or jacket. Our movements must not be restricted. Comfort is paramount in outerwear, particularly around the shoulders. In a standard-fit coat, adjustments in this area are very limited. If the coat fits well around the shoulders, the rest can be adjusted by making minor alterations, such as moving a button (to take in the coat at the waist) or accentuating the waist with a belt. These are minor adjustments that you can make yourself.
Examples: Simone, Vanda, The clergy, Rome, Verona, Anna, Helena, Marcela
Another body type is the very feminine and sexy figure pear-shaped. The simplest way to describe it is as follows: narrow shoulders, a clearly defined waist, fairly wide hips and sturdy thighs. Unfortunately, it can sometimes be problematic due to the disproportion between wide at the bottom and narrow at the top. However, as this is the most common body shape in the world, this difference is often taken into account in clothing designs. Consequently, when there is only a small difference between the shoulder and hip measurements (no more than one size), there is quite a wide choice of coats.
With a pear-shaped figure, coats are the perfect way to easily sculpt your silhouette. Fortunately, a coat makes it easy to conceal fuller thighs by drawing attention to the waist and accentuating it with a belt. Alternatively, by choosing coats with an asymmetrical front, you can try opting for a smaller size that fits your shoulders, as the asymmetrical coat will naturally flare out at the hips anyway, making them appear smaller. In addition, a large collar at the top will balance out any disproportion. Choosing a longer coat with a defined waist that shows off the slimmer parts of your legs – such as your ankles – will also make your figure look slimmer and taller (even if you aren’t very tall). As for the sleeves, both classic set-in sleeves and raglan sleeves (in which case a boat neck is best) will suit you. Although, in my opinion, the classic ones look better.
The most important thing is to avoid protruding pockets and embellishments at hip level, as well as tapered and straight cuts, which can cling unflatteringly to the hips. Of course, as I mentioned above, there are exceptions to every rule. For example, a pear-shaped woman can look great in straight cuts if she deliberately leaves her coats unbuttoned and wears them open – in which case, choosing a size that fits well across the shoulders (usually a smaller size that’s slightly snug across the hips) will visually slim the figure.
The problem arises when the difference between the top and bottom is more than one size; in that case, unfortunately, trapeze-shaped cuts are required, and made-to-measure tailoring is often necessary.
When the difference is small: Athena, Ada, Ola, Lukka, Karla, Kira, Como, Camilla
If the difference is greater: Nikki,Camila
These designs are constructed in such a way that they can be adjusted to fit your figure by making subtle changes, such as moving a button or a fastening. Sometimes, gaining just 2 extra centimetres around the hips is enough to ensure you feel comfortable and look good in your coat.
Ladies of the Hourglass is characterised by a balanced proportion between the bust, waist and hips. Just like the Pear body type, these ladies look their best in classic, understated cuts that do not disrupt their proportions – neither concealing nor adding excessive volume. Less is more – so avoid oversized cuts, frills, puff sleeves, ruffles and large pockets. All it takes is a soft silhouette, slimming V-necklines and a waist accentuated by a belt, and you, with your hourglass figure, will captivate everyone with your femininity and sensuality.
Ada, Kira, Athena, Florence, Como, Lana
For very large busts, kimono or raglan sleeves are ideal. If you have an hourglass figure, you should emphasise your feminine silhouette with a style featuring a belt. If you don’t like belts, most of our belted coats are cut in such a way that they look just as good without one (the belt loops are sewn onto the outer fabric so that they can be easily removed).
Rectangular shape – straight, proportional, forming a rectangular shape due to similar bust, waist and hip measurements. This means shapely shoulders, no waist definition, narrow hips and a lack of curves. When it comes to coats, this is the ideal figure. Any cut will suit you – whether straight, tapered or A-line. This is a figure that can have fun with oversized cuts and wear menswear-inspired styles. It all depends on the effect you want to achieve. Personally, I recommend cuts that soften the silhouette, with gentle lines, and styles with a belt to define the waist. I’d also avoid baggy and wide coats that hide your proportions, and focus instead on those that are tailored to your body shape.
Tall, rectangular-shaped people may find that the sleeves are too short – most are probably too short – so if you’d like your coat or sleeves to be longer, please get in touch with us.
And finally, the last body shape – in my opinion, the most challenging and, at the same time, the one most open to being styled appropriately – the apple-shaped figure. It is characterised by a pronounced a rounded tummy, no waist definition, relatively narrow hips, a large bust and very shapely legs, which should be shown off. Therefore, those with an apple-shaped figure should wear coats that fall just above the knee. Most of our coats can be shortened without affecting the cut. Very fitted coats and coats with a belt should be avoided. Patch pockets won’t be a problem if they’re made from fabric in the same colour. Moderation is key for this body shape, so small, slimming collars, collarless styles or those with a shawl collar are recommended. When choosing a size, opt for one that fits perfectly across the shoulders. If the coat is a little tight around the tummy, you can always adjust the buttons slightly (or have the coat made to measure, with a slightly wider waist). If you have a very full bust, it’s worth investing in a coat with kimono or raglan sleeves (although, in my opinion, classic sleeves can make your figure look slimmer).
Women with an apple-shaped figure often have shorter arms – the sleeves can always be shortened to balance out the proportions of the figure. When you buy our coat, just let us know what length you’d like the sleeves to be, and we’ll tailor your coat with the perfect sleeve length.
Apple-shaped ladies look great in an unbuttoned coat, with a scarf draped along the torso (not around the neck), which visually elongates the figure considerably. Remember that it’s a good idea to create vertical colour blocks and choose a coat in a colour that contrasts with the dominant colour in your wardrobe. A camel-coloured coat will look sensational with dark trousers and a blouse, or conversely, a black or navy coat with beige clothes. The key to colour coordination is creating vertical, slimming colour lines. If you also wear heels with your coat, your figure will benefit even more.
DEBUNKING MYTHS
I also promised to debunk a few myths:
A short person – a long coat
It’s not true that a short person looks bad in a long coat. Especially with an asymmetrical front, a long coat adds a sense of lightness and makes you look taller. You’ll achieve the same effect by leaving the coat unbuttoned or by tying a belt at the back. If you also wear heels, the effect will be even more pronounced.
However, it is important not to overwhelm your figure. If you have a curvier figure in particular, it is worth choosing knee-length coats to avoid making your look appear too heavy.
No waist – a coat with a belt
A coat with a belt will define your waist if you don’t have one. It will give your figure a more balanced look.
Double-breasted coat – large size
Personally, I love double-breasted coats in any size. Some people say they look better with kimono-style or raglan sleeves. That’s probably true. However, all you need to do is create vertical colour blocks, tie a belt at the back, and you’ll look slim and very stylish in a double-breasted coat.
Coat colour and beauty type
Choosing the right colour for your coat is very important. Not every colour will suit you. However, this doesn’t mean that someone with a cool colouring can’t buy a coat in a classic camel colour (light camel). Remember that all you need to do is wear a scarf or neckerchief in a matching shade with your coat to frame your face – and in this way, change the overall look of your outfit.
Many of our coat designs are cut in such a way that they can easily be adapted to suit your figure. However, sometimes it is necessary to make alterations to the coat’s construction. So, if you like a particular coat, please contact us to find out whether it is possible to make certain customisations to suit your individual requirements. With some styles, it is possible to widen the shoulders, lengthen or shorten the coat, widen the hips, or widen or lengthen the sleeves, etc.
The problem of choosing the right size and style of coat affects all of us, but there are solutions for each of us. Every body shape has its pros and cons. And in the end, what matters most is how you feel in your coat or jacket. I can only offer suggestions and advice; the choice is yours.
If you have any queries, please do not hesitate to contact us.